July 6, 2008
We rode the train from Portugal to Lisbon. Here are some thoughts from the three hour train ride:
Out the window I see rural tumble down houses mingling with grape vines, roses, fields of sunflowers and other crops. Portugal is interesting, perhaps cheerfully schizophrenic. The architecture could be roughly divided four different ways: derelict ancient buildings, derelict modern buildings, modern square buildings, and beautiful modern buildings designed to look like the ancient buildings. Some of the ancient buildings are still inhabited and most are surrounded by overgrown trees, roses, and other plants. Others are missing their roofs or their roofs are sagging severely. All of these buildings are romantic and villa like with white washed walls, vines and roses draped around their eves like perfumed scarves. The roofs which are still in their original places are covered in red tiles. The derelict modern buildings are square and seem to be mostly apartments or offices with broken or dirty windows and graffiti covering their chipped walls. The modern square buildings are clean, brightly colored, but rather plain. The beautiful modern buildings resemble the ancient in shape, color, and ornamentation, but have manicured gardens behind intricate rod iron fences and gates. The strangest thing about Portugal is that you may have the most depressed uncared for building beside the most magnificent example of architecture. A whole street may be comprised of buildings from each of the four categories I made up. Sometimes this is charming, at others disconcerting.
July 7, 2008
After an unscheduled layover in Spain we our plane from Lisbon landed in Dublin, Ireland. We bought our bus passes and hopped on for the short ride to our B&B, the ABC House. It was cloudy. The people spoke English. It was wonderful! Our room has huge windows and a nonworking but beautiful fireplace, fancy mirrors and the comfiest bed. Charming. We got settled and then went off to find our local pub. Our neighborhood is very nice. There is a bus stop right in front of the house and lots of other B&Bs which give a very residential feeling to our street. Brick houses facing each other each with its tidy garden and walkway. A short walk and we reached the shops and a pub called The Ivy House. The atmosphere is great with warm orange walls. The wall behind the bar is stone and the floors are hardwood. There are high pub tables with stools and lower round tables. The whole place is comfy and chic. And the food! Everything we had was fantastic! Jon had fish and chips. Joel had a curry. I had caesar salad.
July 8, 2008
Today we got up and had the full Irish breakfast at our B&B. Delicious! After planning what we wanted to see we hopped on a bus and got off at O’Connell Street. I love Dublin! At first I was afraid that everything would be really far away, but the city is compact without being feeling cramped. We walked over the Liffy to Trinity College. Trinity is what a college should look like!
Then we walked down Dame Street to Dublin Castle. Dublin Castle was the seat of English power in Dublin and has gone through as many changes as the country itself.
Both of these are a part of Dublin Castle. In the second photo you can see a statue of Justice. She has her back to Ireland and when the statue was first installed the scales would fill with water when it rained causing them to tip to one side or the other, so much for justice. Behind Dublin Castle is the Cheaster Beatty Library. It is definitely worth walking through. We saw amazing books and scrolls from the ancient world ranging from illustrated stories from Japan, Thai, and India to ornate Iranian and Turkish Korans with beautiful calligraphy, and intricately worked leather bound Bibles from France. We peaked into another gallery which housed sketches by Rembrandt. Then we went to the roof garden which is peaceful and zen. By this time we were getting hungry so we headed over to Temple Bar, which is pretty kitschy, but we found a cute pub. I had a potato and leak soup with brown soda bread. I think I need to start making soups in the fall. After that we made the long walk to the Guinness Storehouse. It was an impressive and slightly overwhelming display of how the drink is made and the history of the company. The tour ends at the Gravity Bar which has a fantastic view of Dublin.
It was a bit late in the afternoon so we decided to head back. We passed Christ Church and many other smaller churches before catching our bus. The bus drops us off right in front of the ABC House. Everything has been lovely and convenient, the people helpful and friendly. Another thing that I love about Dublin is it truly is as charming and quaint as the tourism photos present it. Brick houses with flowers and brightly painted doors line each cobblestone street we passed.
Tonight we tried another pub, the Cat & Cage. After a good dinner (another delicious soup for me), we went back to The Ivy House for coffee and dessert (and wi-fi). My cappuccino was amazing and so is the pear and almond tart. If you are anywhere near Drumcondra Road in Dublin and you are hungry look for The Ivy House. They also play great music.
July 9, 2008
Today we had a proper Irish day, all mist and rain. We went to city center and walked around Temple Bar to Market House Square to visit the National Photography Archive. We were cold and wet and glad to get inside. The archive had a lovely exhibition called “Planes, Trains & Automobiles” which tracked the history of Irish transportation. Across the street was the more modern Photography Gallery. This gallery showcases contemporary Irish Photographers. We spent the rest of the day shopping and dodging raindrops. Every afternoon when we get back to our rooms we make tea and have cookies. It was an especially nice tradition to have on a cold and wet day like today.
July 10, 2008
Today we mailed our postcards and looked around the General Post Office, which played a substancial part in the Easter Uprising. We explored a portion of the city we had not been to before and did a good deal of shopping. I love European Gap, H&M, and Topshop/Topman. Oasis is always a beautiful place to shop. For our last Irish meal we went back to The Ivy House. We talked about what we had done and our favorite moments. Despite how much we love traveling, I think we are all ready to go home.
Tags: ireland, portugal
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